Day 3 and 4 of Rwandan solo bike tour.
Monday 4th August
1000 metres of climbing
Road food- 1 large samosa with a grizzly meat and an egg filling.
It’s a still morning by the lake with plenty of unusual birdsong. At the guest house I ordered porridge and coffee which took 45 minutes to arrive and served in a flask. It’s like watery starchy soup. Flour and water I think, with sugar and powdered milk on the side. Not what I was hoping for, but hey it’s fuel. Image below
It’s Monday so everyone’s up and about the usual umuzungu umuzungu (White person) comes from every child. They generally run with me whilst going up hill shouting ‘money, give me money’.
Bicycle taxi follow for a few kilometres as well. Sometimes That’s okay, when I don’t have the patience so wave them to leave.
You need to watch out for lorries, sometimes they just want to keep there line so want your bit of the road. Luckily there’s a walking path you can roll onto. This is standard African rules of the road, the bigger you are the more rights you have.
The image below is of a fish farm. You can see how intensely farmed this place is as well. Image below.
Second time entering Kigali was a bit more successful. After asking a couple of moto taxis I arrived back at the hostel (I’ve not found a map that works for this city) No room at the Inn though but I feel positive they’ll have a cancellation and go for lunch. When I return a beds come available. Result. During the afternoon and evening I hung out with fellow travellers and had fun. We court moto taxis, went out for dinner, drank at a bar and seven of us squeezed In a cab. We had to divert our route to avoid the police. Ha ha. Whilst letting out a big belly laugh I realised I’d not laughed in a couple of days. Perhaps this is solo cycling, being focused and alone In a strange country doesn’t give you the opportunity to laugh. Adventure isn’t always funny. Right?
Tuesday 5th August
1700 metres of climbing
Road food- 2 small samosas with grizzly meat filling. I won’t eat this again.
This morning felt relaxed with only I thought 50km to ride I was in no rush. So let Kigali envelope me by just rolling into the city centre. After a lap I was ready to hit the road, it maybe the cleanest city in Africa but it’s still hot, polluted and intense.
Heading west started my days riding. A good friend gave me a compass before I left and is the only thing in the cockpit. It’s brilliant especially when exiting Kigali! I saw two local road cyclists as I was leaving town. Hello! The road is not avoiding hills, up and down up and down and each climb takes at least 25 minutes. I’m sure there’s more up than down. It’s was a hard 60km. Arriving at Nyamabuye I found the b&b straight away with a big en suite and plenty of space for me and the bike. There’s a Rwandan style buffet downstairs. It’s satisfying but there’s way too many carbs, a little bit of chewy meet and hardly any protein. I think staying with team Rwanda has rubbed off on me. One of the biggest hurdles Kim and Jock face in building a women’s team is there diet. What vegetables they eat are boiled to mush, they consume ominous meet, never heard of a salad and all meals are predominantly carbs. Drinks are seriously sugary, I saw a guy put three table spoons of sugar in coffee and that’s the norm. As Rwanda is a developing country the vogue figure is bigger rather than cycling slim, this is especially a problem with the women. The men generally come from a cycling taxi back ground so do well quickly. The women’s team is more of a slow burner but in some ways more important for the country as it empowers the women.